Piz Roseg

Piz Roseg, Lanzada, Comunità montana della Valtellina di Sondrio, Sondrio, Lombardy, 23020, Italija

Piz Roseg, standing tall at 3,937 meters, is a prominent peak in the Bernina Range, majestically overseeing the Val Roseg in the Swiss canton of Graubünden. The mountain features two significant summits on its main ridge: the southeast and higher summit at 3,937 meters, and the northwest summit known as Schneekuppe at 3,920 meters. Additionally, it boasts a notable top on the east-northeast ridge, the Roseg Pitschen at 3,868 meters.

The ascent history of Piz Roseg is marked by significant climbing achievements. The first ascent to the Schneekuppe was accomplished by F.T. Bircham with guides Peter Jenny and Alexander Fleury on August 31, 1863. The highest point was conquered two years later on June 28, 1865, by A.W. Moore and Horace Walker, guided by Jakob Anderegg.

A key feature of Piz Roseg is the Porta da Roseg (3,522 m), also known as the Güssfeldtsattel, which separates it from the neighboring Piz Scerscen. The Swiss side of this col, characterized by a steep ice slope with gradients up to 70°, was first climbed by Paul Güssfeldt, along with guides Hans Grass, Peter Jenny, and Caspar Capat on September 13, 1872. This challenging route saw the cutting of over 450 steps during its first ascent.

The north-east face of Piz Roseg, notable for its serac band and standing 700 meters tall, presents a number of demanding routes. It was first scaled by Christian Klucker and L. Norman-Neruda on July 16, 1890. Klucker, in collaboration with M. Barberia, also achieved the first traverse from the Italian side of the Porta da Roseg on June 21, 1898. This rich climbing history and the mountain’s imposing presence make Piz Roseg a significant figure in the landscape of the Swiss Alps.