Mont Dolent

Mont Dolent, standing at an elevation of 3,823 meters (12,543 feet), is a distinct peak in the Mont Blanc massif, uniquely positioned at the confluence of three nations – Italy, Switzerland, and France. Notably, the mountain itself serves as a tripoint for these countries, with the exact junction lying just below its summit at 3,749 meters.

The mountain’s inaugural ascent was accomplished on July 9, 1864, by a team including A. Reilly, Edward Whymper, and guides Michel Croz, H. Charlet, and M. Payot. Whymper, a renowned mountaineer, vividly recounted this climb in his book “Scrambles amongst the Alps.” He described Mont Dolent as a multifaceted ascent, beginning with a hike to the Petit Col Ferret, followed by diverse terrains including grass, a moraine, and a glacier. The summit itself, characterized by Whymper as a delicate cone of snow, presented both beauty and a climbing challenge.

The mountain offers a variety of climbing routes, with the most accessible being the southern face and south-east ridge, rated PD (Peu Difficile, or ‘not very difficult’). This route typically begins from the Glacier de Pre de Bar, concluding with a short, exposed segment on the south-east ridge. Climbers often embark on this four-hour journey from the Italian side, starting at the Fiorio Bivouac Hut. Another popular, though more challenging route (rated AD or ‘Assez Difficile’), ascends via the east ridge, commencing from the Swiss Bivouac du Dolent (la Maye) hut.

Mont Dolent’s notable status as a tri-national peak, combined with its variety of climbing routes and stunning alpine views, continues to attract mountaineers and adventurers from around the world.